So in the lovely province of Verona, Italy, many wonderful things happen. Star crossed lovers, amazing architecture and Valpolicella! The latter is a DOC, a legally defined region governed by strict winemaking laws.Valpolicella is a light, fragrant, fruity wine with hints of licorice, cherries and sometimes a touch of a bitter finish (common to Italian wines). It is made from three grapes that you will never remember: Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara. If you want to take your evening to a whole new level of fantastic, you want an Amarone, the grown up, expensive version of Valpolicella. Right in between falls Ripasso.
To understand Ripasso we must first understand Amarone. The grapes used to make Valpolicella are spread on straw mats and dried in the sunshine while large Italian women stand around and gossip about their husbands. Unlike Sauternes or Tokaji, the goal is to prevent Botrytis cinera (noble rot) and rotting bunches are throw by the wayside. The drying process, called rasinate, concentrates the juice and increases skin contact with the fruit. The resulting wine is big, bold, well balanced, low in acid and deliciously raisiny. It’s also a little pricy.
The poor man’s Amarone is Valpolicella Ripasso. The process is simple: take some Valpolicella (the light, fragrant wine) and re-pass it through the leftover skins, pits, stems, grape mush, lees of the Amarone (called pomace). The wine sits with the pomace for about two weeks and takes on some of the color, tannin and intensity of an Amarone.
And there you have the fantastic trio: Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone. Or for the fashionably inclined … work dress, happy hour dress and little black dress.
Cheers!
Sonja

